Now that the cooler
weather is upon us, you may have noticed that mice are getting into your home
or chipmunks have taken up residence in your flowerbed. Although they are
sometimes cute, they can harbor disease, destroy planted bulbs, not to mention
scare the bejeebies out of you when you least expect it. If you wish to get rid of them, think twice
about using poisons. Not only can your
unsuspecting pets consume it, but they also run the potentially deadly risk of
feasting on a poisoned carcass.
The Havahart trap, which comes in a variety of sizes, is safe and highly effective. These clever gizmos have a one or two door entrance. When the baited trip plate is triggered, the doors are closed, and the critter is caught unharmed. Rodents can be rather elusive, so it may be quickest to use something sticky like peanut butter or cream cheese on the trip plate. Or wrap a few turns of string over the bait and around the trip plate, tying it securely. In either case, the culprit will end up jiggling the trigger and sealing his fate. If you should happen to catch the neighbor’s cat, no harm done.
My prisoners are released in a county park ten miles away from my house. Less distance than that, I’m told, and they may beat you back home! So, move over Crocodile Hunter. I have work to do!
Ever stop to think about how many words your dog knows? If you write them down, you might be amazed. Using the same words consistently will help Barkus understand what you want him to do.
Any action he does on his own (such as pawing his nose), any person, toy, or game you play can be given a name. Once Barkus can distinguish each of these words, you can then ask for a particular toy (Squeaky Bear), or behavior (Dig!) In fact you can string simple sentences together. (Ready Go Ride?)
When naming a puppy be careful that it doesn’t rhyme with a command you intend to use (like Breezy and Easy) to avoid confusion. (A neighbor had two dogs named Dusty and Rusty – I don’t believe they ever knew who was being addressed.)
All people in the
household using the same words will speed the learning process, and get better
results. A vocabulary list can be
posted on the fridge for referral.
These are a few words that we use to avoid confusion:
¨ DOWN - lie on the floor
¨ OFF - don’t jump on me
¨ STAY - don’t move from your position until I tell you
¨ WAIT - a temporary stay, like when needing to put the leash on the dog
before letting him out of the car
¨ COME - run to me and sit in front
¨ HERE - come to me close enough so I can touch you, sit not required
¨ HEEL - walk by my left side without pulling, sit when we stop
¨ LET’S GO - walk anywhere around me within the leash length without pulling
Anyone who has had a vigorous chewer under their roof has searched for things to keep Sport busy. Teaching him what is acceptable to chew helps to avoid destruction of our possessions.
One of the best dog toys to come along is the rubber Kong. There are many to chew-se from, but the ones for focused are red (regular strength) and black (ultra strength). As for size, if it could get stuck in Sport’s throat, it’s too small. Yes, they are expensive, but choosing appropriate strengths and sizes will mean fewer replacements and greater safety. They are also less costly than replacing furniture or parts of the house.
A standard suggestion for using these is to put peanut butter in them. This hooks the dog on the idea of Kong usage. But this is just the tip of the iceberg. Getting only a few minutes of peace and quiet? You need to up the ante.
It is now your job to make removal more difficult
and also make this the most enticing thing
in the surroundings. A plain old dog biscuit ain’t gonna cut it. Sport needs to work really hard at this
project.
Try using a natural peanut butter (it’s stickier, especially when refrigerated). Use a butter-knife or end of a wooden spoon to place the pb way at the smallest end of the Kong….then stuff a dog biscuit on top of the pb….then maybe even freeze it!
Biscuits that fall out of the hole are too small. Find treats that will only fit if you squash the Kong hole from round to oval. That will also help secure the pb and present a decent challenge. Other possible suggestions are large chunks of bagel, carefully wiggled in with cream cheese of liverwurst in the small end.
The list of possible stuffings could be very long depending on what you allow. Even though Sport will eat some people food, he shouldn’t start to beg because you don’t give him Kongs off the dinner table. (Although, if begging during dinnertime is routine, Kong him before you eat to keep him occupied.
Kongs can be frozen, (try layering using some canned dog food to cement the stuff together) or microwaved (place a chunk of cheese in the Kong and nuke a few seconds at a time until the cheese is melted, then roll the Kong to coat the inside, add more stuffings, and serve when cool.) After a day’s workout, soak in hot soapy water, scrub inside, and you’re ready for the next round. Kongs will also survive the dishwasher, if you prefer.
If one Kong keeps Sport busy, there is more fun to be had in multiple Kongs all stuffed with different things, presented all at the same time. Many dogs equal many Kongs to keep them all happy. A greedy or problem dog can be confined while enjoying his personal treat to prevent his hassling other Kong-o-philes.
Picking up and putting away all Kongs when you are home, or when you return can help anxious dogs. This gives Sport a tasty focus only when you are gone and should become a very appealing object.
So, if you are looking for a great solitary toy, stop monkeying around and add Kongs to your next shopping list.
(Submitted to WCGL Mar ’01)
Removal of weeds from between sidewalk and
driveway cracks or from between brickwork can be a challenge if you want to
avoid pulling up surrounding dirt, while protecting surrounding plants and
animals in your home and yard.
Haphazard spraying of chemicals where pets and children play may not be
the best answer.
Ready to try a sure-fire, alternative method that works like a charm and has no harmful side effects? Fill a teakettle with water, then bring to the boiling point. Pour from a height of 3-4” on individual weeds being careful not to splash yourself. Count to 3 or 4 while pouring before moving on to the next “victim”. As a precaution, animals should be removed while you do this until the water cools – a matter of minutes. You are done! It is not even necessary to try to remove the dead weeds after treatment. They will simply dry up and disappear!
The best time to begin this method is in early Spring before the weeds get thoroughly established. You can still do this now by trimming tall weeds first to about 2” so the boiling water can be sure to reach the root system. Repeat as necessary and enjoy being safely weed free. Really!
Are you afraid of thunderstorms? How about Dandy? With storm season upon us, it is crucial that the humans behave properly to actively train and distract the dog. This does not mean petting, cuddling and comforting. Surprised? Since dogs think differently than we do, he misinterprets our “comforting” as praise for cowering, whining, shaking or hiding.
So, what can be done? Start when the weather is sunny and calm by teaching Dandy where to go for a safety spot (if in the end he still must hide). This can be a crate, dog bed or under a desk or behind a sofa. Going to this spot may also come in handy when company arrives. Praise and treat the dog to reinforce. This also gives him a place to go if you happen to not be home when a storm arrives.
Now teach Dandy to PARTY! Wander around indoors with a dish full of goodies. If you have them, put on the 1812 overture or a recording of storm sounds, but if you don’t have these, don’t worry. Proceed as usual. Dance around, hum, sing, hoot, holler, and be cheerful. When the cannons boom or recorded thunder is heard, pass out the goodies while the dog is paying attention to you, then move to another spot for repeats. Do this for short periods, a couple of times a week.
SHOWTIME! During and actual storm, you must now pretend to love this kind of weather. Dandy will pick up on your feelings and expressions, so put on a happy face.
While thunder is distant, wander around (even outside if you can) with your tasty morsels and party as before. When the sky rumbles, speak cheerfully to Dandy, give him a treat, and move away from the dog for repeats. Indoors you can turn on the TV or radio as background sound. If the storm is now upon you, this may be the Gala Event – if need be, break out the filet, garlic chicken, liver, or cheese – you know, the Top Shelf stuff. Treat, move, and be happy. If he’s receptive to the fun, throw in an obedience command just for fun.
If Dandy just won’t party despite your efforts, show him to his safe spot, but don’t reward him unless he’s brave enough to come out.
If storms are disturbing to you, this may be good therapy for you, too. You won’t have time to be afraid if you are working hard to dispel the fears of your favorite companion.
These procedures may work well during fireworks also. Trying loses nothing.
So, through the storm season, be prepared to bolt into motion – repeatedly. Fear behavior can be resistant to change. Be persistent. You may have to brush up every year when the serious storms roll in again. In the long run, you’ll be glad you did, and in no time you’ll remember all the words to “Singin’ in the Rain”.
§ You don’t have to trim all toenails at the same time. If it’s a struggle, end on a positive note (just holding the feet and feeding small treats), and try another foot tomorrow.
§ Your dog may be more cooperative if you wait until late evening when he is winding down for the day. His batteries are recharged in the morning and he may not want to remain still. Or, try some good hard exercise before a pedicure.
§ Be sure the blade is sharp so the device cuts the nail rather than crushes it, leaving jagged and torn edges. Use a file to smooth edges if necessary.
§ Some dogs will better accept nail filing – a more tedious process, but less traumatic and but little danger of cutting into the quick, especially with dark nails.
§ Handle feet and toes often, not just at manicure time. (You paid for those, too when you bought the dog!) Give small tidbits as rewards for handling. At first, 1 treat per toe, then work toward 2-3 toes per treat, next 3-4 treats after each foot, and finally always a JACKPOT (handful) when you’re all done!
§ Alternate something pleasant with cutting. For example: cut a nail, brush the dog’s neck, cut a nail, rub his ears, cut a nail, rub his tummy – you get the idea.
§ A great time to cut nails is right after a bath when the nails are softer, or rub baby oil on nails to help soften them.
§ Most efficient – THE NAIL GRINDER! You will probably need a few sessions of simply turning the thing on for your dog to get used to the noise. Feed really great goodies such as cheese bits or soft treats to overcome the sound.
§ How often? When I hear tap dancing, I grab the clippers. Nails should clear the floor when the dog is standing still. Light nails seem to grow faster the dark ones. Long nails can affect a dog’s gait, performance, and health.
Company coming? When there’s a party or gathering at home, there’s opportunity for pets to eat something they should not have. People are going to sneak food to a dog (or the dog will mooch or steal), so, be prepared. Before guests arrive, make a bowl of dry dog snacks to set with the people food snacks. This can include kibble, small dog treats, raisins, croutons, popcorn, and bite size cereal, for example. Put into a bowl clearly labeled as treats for the dog, and with instructions to Please Feed The Dog. If your party time is near a canine mealtime, you can increase the kibble and eliminate their usual meal entirely.
At least by doing this your dog will be eating something acceptable, and you will be allowing your guests to indulge the little darlings if they wish. For this to work well, Sport must take food from the hand in a gentle manner, so be sure to teach this first to the dog before attempting to have others hand feed him. Command EASY or GENTLE, and allow him to have the food only if he complies with that order. I use air popped salt and butter free popcorn when teaching this because there are few calories to worry about and a lot of opportunities in a bowl.
Isn’t it nice to have a “wash and wear” dog? Grooming admittedly is a lot easier for me now than with some of my previous breeds such as St. Bernards and Borzois. But let’s not get too lax.
The conformation dog is bathed, brushed, trimmed, manicured, poked and prodded for any physical deviation. Besides conformation, many of us chose other activities such as agility, tracking, hunting test, field trials, obedience, fly ball, ratings, test, CGC……..see yourself yet?
Since all these activities ask a lot of our dogs, it makes sense to thoroughly go over them before a class or event. This can truly enhance performance. When we can eliminate physical distractions such as sore ears, overgrown nails, painful teeth, or uncomfortable anal glands, we have less to weed through when figuring how to train improvements.
So, go over them head to toe, nose to tail. Better performances will show that you did!
Chances are your
Weimaraner barks. Like most everything
else, they apply themselves to this activity with great enthusiasm. Have you found the OFF switch yet?
It is reasonable that they should let us know when there are “intruders”. It is also reasonable that we should be able to control the extent of the alarm.
There are many ways to
approach this, with differing results.
With my favorite method, to begin with I always let them bark for a few
seconds (even ENCOURAGE the barking), then I go to investigate the cause. Once there, I praise them, use a release
word (let’s go get a COOKY), then run away to get an extremely tasty treat
which they must come with me to get.
Bear in mind they will be stressed because of the invader, so be sure
the treat is something they absolutely will not refuse.
Now that you have their attention away from the situation, command SIT. From the sit they are handed the treat while you say GOOD QUIET! (They will be quiet because they can’t chew, swallow, and bark at the same time.) Now release them and go about doing whatever until the next interruption.
Repeat, repeat, and repeat. It may take a few days to a few weeks, but
pretty soon if you are consistent, they will now bark a few woofs, then stop
and look for you. At this stage, I
continue to use treats and gobs of verbal praise. Gradually I use more praise
than treats, but will feed them every now and then to keep them guessing.
For me, this works much better than a Bark-Fest where they bark and I holler for them to be quiet. They only know what we teach them.